One-piece coat



S. WESTER ONE-PIECE don Filed Sept. 11, 1931 Patented Mar. 7, 1933 PATENT OFFICE I STEFAN W-ESTER, OF EASTON, PENNSYLVANIA ONE-PIECE .0041

Application filed September 11, 1931. Serial No. 562,335.

This invention relates to coats, and more especially to the method of making the same, the coat being substantially seamless in construction and therefore in one piece.

In the manufacture of coats heretofore it has been proposed to provide a coat blank, wherein the front and rear panels are separated by cut out portions, made in such a manner as to necessitate lifting one panel with respect to the other, so as to properly seam the edges of the panels. This arrangement and construction results in an improper fit, or makes it necessary to stretch the coat material or displacing the surface designof the coat material, so that the apparel shall fit properly, the displacing of the surface design of the material especially results when the design includes cross stripes as in plaid goods.

Also while in some coat patterns the upper ends of the edges of each cut out portion are in horizontal alignment so as to obviate the necessity for lifting either of the panels for properly making the seams, there is no way of making the pattern so that when the wearer becomes too large the coat can be made to fit.

The above disadvantages can be overcome by making a coat blank in one piece compris- 3'0 ing front, sides and back panels with gores closed at both ends extending from points adjacent the side pockets up to other points closely adjacent those portions of the blank 1 that conform to the armpits, so that when a wearer becomes too large the coat blank can be made to fit.

Furthermore, by the darts being closed at the top the lifting of one panel with respect to the other is obviated, as well as the neces- 40 sity for stretching the coat material and also causing a displacement of the surface design.

Furthermore, by closing the darts at the top near the armhole, or in other words by making closed darts, it is possible to provide for suflicient front and back in the material of the coat blank.

An example of suchopen darts at the top ends running into the armholes is disclosed in a patent to Caprarola,-No. 1,636,274, and

should such coat blank be made to fit a wearer, who should need any alterations subsequently, there would not be suflicient material above the darts to compensate for the cutting 'out of the armholes in order to accommodate for the alterations made, and

to cut out approximately twelve hundred (1200) coats from material which formerly permitted a cut of only one thousand (1000) coats. Also a saving in labor as well as-a saving of material in the lining of the coat are accomplished.

It is to be understood that the particulars herein given are in no way limitive, and that while still keeping within the scope of the invention, any desired modification of details and proportions may be made in the construction of the appliance according to circumstances.

The invention comprises further features and combination of parts to be hereinafter set forth, shown in the drawing and claimed.

In the drawing I Figure 1 is a view of a coat blank constructed in accordance with the invention, showing the darts closed at their upper ends at points near the armholes of the blank.

: Figure 2 is aview showing the blank of material, the material being folded, and illustrating a pattern just immediately above the blank, in order to illustrate a pattern consisting of one front and one rear side portion, so that by folding the material from which the coat blank is to be cut an entire one-piece blank can be made.

Referring to the drawing 1 identifies a pattern, made of the usual paper for cutting patterns, and which consists of one rear side and one front. The process of cutting the coat blank comprising a full back, sides and front panels, the material for the coat blank 2 is folded as at 3, and then the pattern is placed on the folded materiahthe straight edge 4 of the patternbeing even with the fold in the material. Thepattern, as will be observed, is properly marked and cut for marking and arranging for the location of the pockets, buttonholes, darts, armholes, shoulder portions and lapel parts. The material is then properly marked according to the pattern, and as previously emphasized the darts 5 and 6 are the essential features of the invention. The darts 5 extend from points adjacent the upper edges of the lower side pockets, to points substantially adjacent the armholes, but both ends of the darts 5 are closed as shown at 7.

The darts 6 extend from points near the upper edges of the lower side pockets on acute angles relative to the darts 5, and these latter darts are provided for the purpose of making a proper fit of the front panels, as well as making a proper fit of the material between the darts 6 and the darts 5, whereas the darts 5 are particularly adapted, when stitched, to make a proper fit of the back and sides of the coat, so that the apparel will properly conform to the wearers body.

It will be noted that said darts 5 and 6 have certain of their edges nearest the front panel as being straight, while the opposite edges 8 are concaved toward the rear panel, in order to provide for the proper take-up in the material so as to provide for the proper shaping of the coat sufficient to fit the wearer. Furthermore, the acute angles of the two sets of darts enable the proper fitting of the side and front panels of the coat to the body, and permit of relatively slight lifting of the panels, without mismatching the design of the material.

The invention having been set forth, what is claimed is:

A one piece coat garment blank having arm openings and integral front and rear panels, a portion of the blank between each of the front and rear panels having darts extending from points immediately adjacent and just below arm openings downwardly on a substantial angle to the center of the back panel and terminating relatively close to lower pockets of the blank, said darts being located substantially where the front panels connect with the back panel, said blank having additional darts in the front panels substantially shorter than and at substantial acute angles to the first darts, the second darts extending from loWer pockets of the blank toward and through the front panels and being located between the first darts and the edges of the front panels, both sets of darts being closed at their opposite ends and similarly constructed with certain of their edges substantially straight facing nearest the front panels, and certain other of their edges concaved toward the back panel, the concavities of the concaved edges being not so great as would prevent the concaved edges from matching with the straight edges when said STEFAN WESTER. 

